white & gold bra

I’ve been bra sewing again! I have a few other sewing projects that I really need to dedicate my time to, but I just couldn’t help myself!

I wanted to play around with the cup style, so I’ve added in a power-band, and I moved the cross seam up a little bit.

I cut the majority of the cup from a beautiful white and gold lace from Boobytraps. The power band is a medium weigh, white lycra.

I wanted a much lower cut style than my previous bra, so I took about 4cm out of the cups and bridge. Only after I did this, I realized that I didn’t have any under-wires to fit the lower style. I could have waited, and bought some, but I was being rather impatient, so I harvested a pair of wires from an old bra. I checked to make sure they weren’t bent out of shape, then I drew around them onto a piece of paper for future wire-buying.

To show how much I lowered the bridge, I put the white bra on top of the pink bra. It’s quite a dramatic difference!

The back is exactly the same design as my pink bra, and cut from the white lycra.

I lined the entire bra (except the back wing) with bra tule. I love how it encases all of the seams, it gives a very neat finish.

I wore this bra yesterday, so I could report on the comfort level. OMG it was SO ITCHY! How is that possible? It’s fully lines with the softest tule and it doesn’t have any raw seams!? The only thing I can think of, is that I’m rather sensitive, having worn padded bras every day for the last 15 years. Has this been a problem for anyone else? I hope to get used to it over time, because I’d hate to never wear this bra again, it’s so beautiful!

Let me know if you’ve experienced anything like this, and if you have any recommendation to increase the comfort.

Mitty x

how to: sew a french seam

French seams are a very delicate and easy way to add a level of professionalism to your ‘MeMade’ items. This method encases the raw edge of the fabric inside the seam. I particularly like to use this seam when sewing with silks. I’ve used cotton in this example, but there is a silk picture to show you at the end of the post.

 First, you need a 1cm seam allowance to work with. Pin the fabric wrong sides together. This feels very unnatural, and I still have to concentrate during this step. It’s so easy to pick up the fabric and whack the right sides together.

Sew down your seam 5mm away from the raw edge.

Being very careful, trim away the seam allowance, getting as close to the stitches as you dare! I usually cut off around 3mm-4mm.

Once the seam is trimmed, fold the fabric so that right sides are together, encasing the raw edge in the new seam. Some people like to use an iron to get a very crisp fold, but I find working the seam out with my fingers is just as good.

Pin, and stitch another seam, 5mm away from the sewn edge.

That’s it! You don’t have any raw fabric showing, which makes for a very tidy looking seam. Below is a picture of a French seam in silk organza. I’ve pressed this seam to one side to flatten it. I really love how the seam is visible through the sheer fabric.

This is actually part of a very special dress that I’ve made.. You’ll see more of it in a few weeks time!

Mitty x